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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.